(steaks) At the epicenter of Rush Street action, this always-packed prime meat scene follows the ultimate Chicago steak-house paradigm to a T. (French) Well, maybe faux French, but the flower-bedecked courtyard was incredibly popular with the Ladies Who Lunch long before the phrase was coined. (Continental) Home of the three-hour lunch for columnists, models, and moguls: Irv Kupcinet described Fritzel’s as Chicago’s version of Toots Shor’s. (American barbecue) Ribs moved into a swanky dining room in Skokie, everyone wore plastic bibs, and licking your fingers in public became not only acceptable-but fashionable. (steaks, Italian) If the walls of this 1870 edifice could talk, they would spill decades of political deals cut over perfectly char-crusted aged prime steaks. (seafood) Unapologetically trapped in time today, the grande dame of the Drake Hotel was ahead of its time-flying in fresh fish-years before the daily catch was de rigueur. (French) A visit to Jovan Trboyevic’s sanctuary for nouvelle cuisine started with a private elevator ride to the third floor-where bad behavior would get you tossed out. (steaks) This indie steak house nodded to its Jewish deli roots-chopped liver, herring-attracted celebs like Johnny Carson, and spawned a cheesecake empire. (Franco-Asian) Jimmy Rohr greeted guests at the door, kept the lights low, and played strictly opera music, which made for the most civilized dinner in town. (Continental) As well known for its chicken à la king-yes, that chicken à la king-as its indoor ice-skating, this razzma-tazz club knew how to throw a party. (Far Eastern) This over-the-top tiki bar and restaurant out-tiki’d the competition with its Polynesian fare and exotic cocktails so potent, management set a two-zombie-drink limit. (German) Natty waiters have handled hot corned beef sandwiches, Wienerschnitzel, and house-made root beer with pride and aplomb for 112 years. (Viennese) In the heart of the theatre district, the steadfastly Old World Henrici’s was known for fine coffee, delectable pastries, and its advertising slogan: No Orchestral Din. (American) Some pretty hotsy-totsy chefs have discovered hamburgers lately, but time was when the half-pounder on dark rye and fried onion loaf at Hackney’s had no peers. (American) The Alexander brothers’ swanky meat palace was such a star magnet that Nicky Hilton flew buckets of their salad dressing to the Anaheim Hilton when he married Liz Taylor. and Aretha Franklin, this landmark spot remained the go-to for corn bread, smothered chicken, grits, and cobbler. (soul food) Long after visits from Martin Luther King Jr. (deli food) Where cops, aldermen, yuppies, old-timers, and multi- cultis have always stood shoulder to shoulder for massive potato pancakes and pastrami sandwiches. (American) The Spinning Bowl salad: A waiter would lay out 21 ingredients and narrate the drama as he gently tossed and spun them. (German) The stately original across from the Germania Club fell to urban renewal, and when RSI closed for good, we lost the city’s best German pancakes. Now it’s sold online, along with her famous spaghetti sauce. (Italian-American) In 1948, Fanny Bianucci said no to $75,000 from Kraft Foods for her salad dressing recipe. (Cantonese) No one has yet equaled its egg rolls, sweet and sour pork, chicken sub gum chow mein, and pan-fried noodles. Feel free to disagree-all my friends did-and register your complaints in the comments below. Some get accolades for being game changers, some for grandeur, and even a few for kitsch, but all for memorable dining. We gathered them from experience, of course, but also from Chicago’s voluminous files, avid conversations, and old guidebooks. What follows is a list of 40 restaurants that epitomize Chicago’s impact on the culinary universe. No different from Chez Paul or Jacques (which made the cut for its lovely garden). You have to include Barney’s! No, too corny. The danger of asking your friends what they consider the best Chicago restaurant ever is that they will tell you. Photography: (Manny’s) Chicago Tribune photo by Charles Osgood, (Achatz) Lara Kastner/Courtesy of Alinea, (Berghoff) Chicago Tribune photo by José M.
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